|Nothing like a gaggle of ladies to keep a chap awake in the afternoon...|
Made by Yours Truly: Shirt, underpants, standing collar, stock collar, striped cravat, pink day vest, embroidered evening vest, and blue wool frock coat.
|"SOMEONE SAVE ME; I DIDN'T REALIZE WHAT I WAS GETTING MYSELF INTO"|
I used a lightweight linen-cotton blend for the shirt, and as with pretty much all the rest of this outfit, did a mixture of machine sewn and hand finished. In this particular instance, the main seams are machine sewn and hand-felled, and anything visible is done by hand (the buttonholes are truly terrible, by the way).
I ended up having to piece the tucked front; well strictly speaking I didn't HAVE to, but if I didn't piece it I'd have had to cut into a whole 'nother length of linen, which just seemed wasteful. Piecing is still period! Plus it's down at the bottom and you can't see it with the vest over it anyway.
|"Let's try on your shirt and collar!" "Great..."|
Mr Dedicated Follower of Fashion will not be modeling his drawers for you, as they're made of a mid-to-lightweight linen and are somewhat see-though...plus I went for the bargain-basement option and didn't bother with a fly, so they gap. Which is fine for wearing and is mostly filled in with the shirt-tail...but we're not putting that on the internet. He wants to stay somewhat respectable! ;)
I started with the Black Snail trouser pattern (fitted leg version), and just took out all the extra stuff and put the basic leg pieces on a plain waistband. They ended up a hair tight in the calves, but I let them out as much as I could in the outside seam, and told him he wasn't going to be running any marathons anyway. Of course they stretched after a day of wearing anyway, including in the waist...where they are now about 3" too big, entertainingly. No great fuss, just move the buttons over, but, ahhh, linen.
Vests: From the Black Snail pattern. Mix of machine and hand sewn; everything visible is hand done.
|Piles of backs and linings; those I assembly-lined.|
|Back of the day vest has a buckle; the evening one is cut just a bit shorter and doesn't have the straps/buckle.|
1850s and 1840s vests, respectively. I wasn't interested in trying to exactly copy any one vest (see: limited embroidery skillz), just an approximation.
Katherine C-G dress or anything. ;) And having made this vest (and, ahem, a pair of not-quite-finished suspenders!), I have discovered I do quite like having an embroidery project around for some handwork to pick up, so you may see more of it around here.
(Also, button forms are quarters and dimes on this one.)
Tailcoat: A cheapo Ebay find (yay satin lapels...blergh), decidedly not perfect, but about a third of the price of the next-best "Victorian" tailcoat, which wasn't perfect anyway. I chopped off a couple of inches from the fronts (they were lower-waisted with the "points") and moved the actual "tail" part back a few inches. If I'm feeling industrious before he wears it again, I may go in and nip in the side-back seams for a better fit, as all the coats of the period that I've seen are much less loosely-fitted. But I'll have to unpick the lining to do that, so that was more of a commitment than I wanted to make for this first wearing, and therefore left well enough alone!
|Look at that non-curve at the back. Will fix. Sometime.|
|Oh, the humanity...|